Jar, the Beverly Grove chophouse from chef Suzanne Tracht, has been a fixture in the Los Angeles dining scene since it opened in 2001. Over two decades later, the restaurant continues to hold its own, maintaining its midcentury modern aesthetic and a classic chophouse sensibility in a city known for chasing the next big thing. It remains a reliable destination for a distinctive L.A. dinner.
Tracht's journey to opening Jar began in the 1990s, after she served as chef de cuisine at Campanile, the iconic restaurant helmed by Nancy Silverton and Mark Peel. She then opened Jozu before debuting Jar in 2001. The restaurant quickly became an early hit, earning Tracht accolades such as Food and Wine’s Best New Chef. Her appearance on "Top Chef: Masters" further cemented her reputation, drawing praise from critics like the Los Angeles Times' S. Irene Virbila, who highlighted the continued refinement of Jar's dishes.
Tracht has consistently credited chef de cuisine Preech Narkthong with contributing to Jar's unique culinary identity. Narkthong helped infuse Asian ingredients and techniques into the menu, creating dishes like duck fried rice, lemongrass chicken, and kimchi Brussels sprouts. These additions complement Tracht's reimagined American comfort fare, adding a distinct flair to an otherwise traditional chophouse menu. The kitchen team utilizes seasonal ingredients with careful adornment, avoiding over-complication while enhancing the flavor profile.
Diners at Jar step into a space that feels wonderfully old-school, where dressing up for no reason for a classy date night or martini-fueled hangs with longtime friends is part of the appeal. The restaurant's midcentury modern dining room, which still beams with character, has even made appearances in film and television, including a memorable scene in "La La Land." It's also a favorite of "Poog" podcast hosts Kate Berlant and Jacqueline Novak. Among its most iconic offerings, the pot roast is a standout, served with roasted vegetables and caramelized onions, particularly appealing when the weather cools. The New England clam chowder, crusted with toasted bread crumbs, offers a similar soul-warming, rib-sticking experience, perhaps best enjoyed outside the warmer summer months.
In an era when restaurants often chase fleeting trends, Jar stands firm in its aughts in sensibility and classic appearance. The restaurant’s commitment to irreproachable seasonal ingredients and its notably old-school service contribute to its enduring charm. Furthermore, its prices are positioned a touch below other well-known Los Angeles establishments like Mastro’s and Musso & Frank’s. This combination of quality, consistency, and a classic approach solidifies Jar’s status as a modern classic in Los Angeles dining, one that many residents find still worth celebrating for its unique blend of reliability and character.
