For Angelenos who mourned the closure of Cole’s in March, the Downtown institution is set to reopen as early as next month. Chef and hospitality entrepreneur Jeremy Fall and Sean Maloney, formerly of Mozza Restaurant Group, are leading the effort to revive the restaurant, which first opened in 1908 as Cole’s Pacific Electric Buffet.
Cole's, long rumored to be the inventor of the French dip sandwich, shut its doors on March 29 after extensions. The previous owner, Pouring With Heart hospitality group, had cited financial losses stemming from the pandemic, entertainment industry strikes, and rising labor costs for the initial closure announcement, which was originally planned for July 2025. Public support from Angelenos, however, helped delay the final shutdown until this spring.
Jeremy Fall, who grew up living two blocks from Cole's above his family’s Angelique Cafe, felt a personal connection to the restaurant. "Seeing the oldest restaurant close, such a historical landmark, was really sad," Fall said. He and Maloney have been working quietly since early August to prepare the space, with the sale having been in the works for over a year. They currently hold a temporary liquor license and are awaiting full approval to close escrow, with hopes of reopening Cole’s in mid- to late November.
While the French dip and its legendary atomic mustard will return (with a slightly tweaked recipe), the new Cole's aims to expand its culinary offerings to secure its long-term future. Maloney, who estimates he has opened 11 other restaurants, describes the vision for the new Cole's as if New York's 4 Charles Prime Rib and Pastis and L.A.’s Musso and Frank Grill "had a child out of wedlock." Expect white tablecloths, fresh pasta, and an expanded line of sauces, alongside the classic cocktails and a new au jus-washed martini.
Leading the kitchen will be Head Chef Daniel Nguyen, formerly of Osteria Mozza and Lolo Wine Bar. The revamped French dip will include an Original version, made with dry-brined prime rib and a 24-hour au jus that is used for dipping, braising, and as a final sauce. A pastrami version and a vegan option made of mushroom and onion are also planned. Clark Street Bread is developing a new custom sandwich roll, aiming for a balance of their signature baguette and a classic roll with a hint of Americana.
Preserving Cole’s historic ambiance was a stated priority for Fall and Maloney. Since receiving the keys, they have added vintage tin ceiling tiles and removed the pool tables to make way for more seating and a piano. The famous plaques above the urinals in the renovated bathrooms, including the one declaring "Charles Bukowski pissed here," will remain, as will the booth frequented by gangster Mickey Cohen.
"Preserving its history is the priority," Fall said, acknowledging that the menu expansion is also crucial for keeping the doors open. While Fall and Maloney maintain that Cole's, not Philippe's, created the French dip, they refer to the long-standing debate as a "friendly competition," noting Philippe's kind social media post when Cole's initially closed.
As for the hidden space behind the dining room that once housed The Varnish, the groundbreaking cocktail bar, Fall and Maloney are not yet revealing their long-term plans. For now, the former Varnish room will be used for private dining through the end of this year.
Cedd Moses, from the previous ownership group Pouring With Heart, expressed satisfaction with the new owners, stating that passing the torch to those who would respect the institution was always important. Moses, who still operates seven bars downtown, noted that his group had a "great run" for 18 years, and that he believes there is still a "deep hunger" for Cole's history, its French dip, and its setting, especially given the outpouring of support that delayed its initial closure.
