The Holloway, an Echo Park sports bar operating in the space formerly occupied by Lonely Oyster, is shaking up what patrons expect from bar food. Under the guidance of chef Andrew Rodriguez, the menu presents what the establishment describes as smart riffs on classic bar staples, moving past generic expectations without veering into pretension.

Visitors might approach the menu, which features a giant smiley face on its cover, anticipating typical items like a "chicken park sando" or a "little gem wedge." However, according to The Holloway, chef Andrew Rodriguez is "performing culinary magic" in the kitchen, applying a distinctive touch to each dish. For instance, the chicken parm is served on focaccia, and the fries arrive dusted with Cool Ranch seasoning. Even the wedge salad gets a reimagining, featuring nutritional yeast and everything bagel seasoning instead of the usual onions.

The approach takes simple, well-known items such as fries, sandwiches, and nachos and elevates them with creative additions. The nachos, for example, feature chips seasoned with "cool ranch seasoning" and are served with thick avocado slices, green onions, and crema, offering a surprising depth of flavor. The chicken wings, described as both tender and crunchy thanks to a turn on the grill, are another standout. The fish and chips are noted for their perfect crust and come with homemade tartar sauce.

This kind of culinary elevation is a welcome change in a dining landscape that, according to The Holloway, sometimes leans towards being overly precious or expansive. The establishment posits that Angelenos don't necessarily need another three-digit tasting menu, but rather deserve the kind of accessible yet innovative cooking that can be found in The Holloway's kitchen.

Beyond the food, The Holloway maintains its identity as a sports bar, strategically located for Dodger Stadium attendees. It aims to be a prime spot for pre- or post-game meals, offering a chili dog that it claims handily beats anything found in a stadium, alongside a margarita made with blue curaçao, dubbed "Dodger blood." With the NFL season underway, The Holloway is also positioning itself as a gathering place for sports-related viewings, inviting patrons to come for the game but stay for the food.

For those curious about the chicken sando, while it's no longer officially on the menu, The Holloway states it can still be made upon request. The Holloway is located at 1320 Echo Park Avenue and is open Sunday through Thursday from noon to midnight, and Friday and Saturday from noon to 2 AM.

This fresh take on bar food suggests that what you think you know about sports bar dining might need a second look in Echo Park.