Los Angeles lost a quiet culinary connection with the passing of Dolly Parton on Wednesday, August 25, at 80 years old. While the world mourns the recording artist, philanthropist, and icon, Southern California remembers her regular stops at Silver Lake’s El Chavo restaurant, a Mexican spot that closed its doors in 2015. For many years, Parton made sure to visit, always ordering the same dish: green corn tamales.
Justine Hernandez, who owns Frogtown’s Just What I Kneaded and Justine’s Wine Bar, tended bar at El Chavo between 2010 and 2015. She recalls management informing her early on that Parton was a frequent diner, even telling her to expect to see the star. Parton was reportedly "obsessed" with the green corn tamales, so much so that the kitchen would prepare a fresh batch whenever she was performing in L.A.
Parton maintained a friendship with Ricardo De La Garza, El Chavo's original owner who opened the establishment in 1966. Over her repeat visits, she arrived without an entourage, always in full glam makeup, high heels, and her signature voluminous hair. Parton got to know many of the long-serving staff members by name. Hernandez remembers her graciousness when fans approached for a photo, noting Parton would always reply, "Of course, darlin’.”
El Chavo eventually paid tribute to its famous patron with a dedicated shrine. The corner bar featured a painting, photos, and memorabilia that De La Garza collected, placed alongside the neon-colored sombreros hanging from the ceiling. The restaurant even hosted a queer game night honoring Parton.
Parton's ties to California ran deeper than Silver Lake tamales. She owned a property in Solvang from 2004 to 2014, which included a wig room and a stained-glass window featuring her name and butterfly motif, according to the Desert Sun. She also reportedly owned a cabin in Idyllwild, complete with a guitar-shaped toilet, as reported by the San Francisco Chronicle. Her experiences in Los Angeles are even cited by SF Gate as inspiring her to open Dollywood, her Tennessee theme park. On the day of her death, the Santa Monica Pier was lit in Parton’s signature pink hue.
Hernandez summarized the beloved artist’s presence, describing Parton as very sweet to everyone and noting the immediate, loving energy she radiated. The first time Parton walked in, Hernandez remembered the staff whispering about her arrival.
